How To Use A Slate Frame – A Historic Tool For Modern Stitchers

As an embroiderer, you’re probably familiar with an embroidery hoop, an essential tool that keeps the fabric taut while you’re stitching. While hoops have been used for over 100 years, there is an even older tool with medieval origins called the slate frame.

You may be surprised to hear that slate frames are still around today, and they’re an amazing (if not better) alternative to a hoop.

In this post, I’ll go over some of their interesting history, the benefits of working with one, tips for choosing the right size frame, and how to dress one.

I want to thank CJ and Pete from Artful Fox for sharing their wealth of knowledge and excellent quality products with me. If it wasn’t for their generous time and resources, this tutorial wouldn’t be possible!

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you choose to purchase an item.

A Brief History Of The Slate Frame

The slate frame dates back to the 1400s and was depicted in paintings from this time period. Embroidery was often created in workshops by groups of people. Much of this work was extremely intricate and required adequate and even tension on the fabric. Ecclesiastical embroidery, gold work, and crewel work were some of the many popular styles of embroidery during this time, all of which highly benefited from the adjustable slate frame.

Later on during the 17th century, stumpwork became more popular, another style of embroidery that fares well with the excellent stability of an embroidery frame.

While these frames are extremely effective, they do require quite a bit of time to set up. So naturally, when embroidery hoops entered the scene in 1903, they eventually became the more popular choice among stitchers.

I’m keeping this brief as this article is meant to be a tutorial for working with these frames. But if you’d like to read even more, Piecework Magazine has a really interesting article about the history of these tools.

What Are The Benefits of Using A Slate Frame?

Beyond preserving a historical tradition, there are many practical reasons to use a slate frame.

They help preserve the weave of the fabric.

Unlike an embroidery hoop which is usually circular in shape, slate frames are rectangular, which provides even tension along the warp and weft (vertical and horizontal) threads of the fabric.

It’s easy to distort or over-stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and the fabric usually slips and easily becomes loose. When a slate frame is properly set up, these common problems rarely occur.

If you plan to embroider a rectangular composition or you want to frame an embroidery when you’re done, slate frames are the ideal option.

The gold standard for intricate, detailed work.

Slate frames are the best option for many types of embroidery including crewel work, thread painting, and goldwork. All of these techniques use a variety of heavier threads or denser stitches that are more inclined to pucker the fabric if it isn’t under an adequate amount tension. Excellent precision is a must to get the stitches just right!

They come in many sizes

There is a limit to how large an embroidery hoop you can use. The larger you go, the more tension becomes an issue. Slate frames come in a large variety of sizes and provide amazing structure and tension even for large scale work.

The tension is immaculate

I know you’ve heard me yap about “tension” a lot, but if there is one reason to convince you to try a slate frame, this would be the reason…compared to embroidery hoops, the tension of a slate frame is so much better.

No fabric slipping, puckering, or frustration! The stitching process is so much more enjoyable.

Anatomy Of A Slate Frame – Helpful Terms To Know

A slate frame has several main parts to it:

• The two cylindrical bars that have cotton fabric on them are called roller bars. The cotton fabric that is attached to the bar is called cotton webbing.
• The two narrower bars that get inserted into the roller bars are often called stretcher slats or spreader bars.
• The small metal pins that secure the frame are referred to as cotter pins. Frames that have larger holes in the stretcher slats use wooden lacing or ring pegs.

Choosing A Frame Size

Frames are a bit of an investment, so you’ll naturally want to find one that will give you the most value for your money.

Do you plan to stitch at your desk or are you willing to invest in trestle bars?

• Smaller frames are ideal for tabletop stitching while larger frames will require trestle bars.

What size projects do you plan on doing?

• Keep in mind that each frame has a good amount of size variability. The frame can be lengthened or shortened vertically along the slats. And you can always attach a piece of fabric that is narrower than the cotton webbing. However, you cannot go any wider than the cotton webbing along the roller bars.

Read even more about choosing a size here.

How To Dress A Slate Frame

Phew! I know that was a lot…let’s get into the tutorial.

Supplies Needed

• Slate Frame and Cotter Pins – I use the Mighty Frame by Artful Fox
• Pencil or pen – I like to use heat erasable Frixion Pens (Amazon)
• Tape Measure – It’s helpful to have one in centimeters because it makes math easier!
• Fabric – If this is your first time, I recommend using cotton fabric. Linen is a lot trickier to use. If you plan to use it, make sure you square it up and mark out the center with a running stitch.
• 1 1/2 inch Cotton Twill Tape – (Amazon)
• Heavy Duty Sewing Thread
• Cotton Twine (Amazon)
• Embroidery Needles or sewing needles that can fit heavy duty sewing thread. I like to use size 7
• Bracing Needle – aka meat trussing needle. Just a heads up: these are HUGE, but they are supposed to be in order to thread the twine! (Amazon)
• Sewing Pins
• Embroidery Scissors and Fabric Shears
• Iron With Steam
• Pliers – not required, but very helpful with cotter pins

Setting Up

Before we begin, make sure your slate frame is unassembled. It’s also important that the fabric you plan to use is cut straight across, properly pressed, and the width of the fabric is cut down to a size that is no wider than the cotton webbing on the frame.

First, measure the area between the slat holes in the roller bar.

Make a small mark where the center is on the wood above the webbing and along the bottom edge of the webbing. You only have to do this once; this will help you properly center any piece of fabric.

Prep The Fabric

Make a 1/2 inch fold along the top edge of the fabric.

Repeat for the bottom edge of the fabric. Press the folds if needed.

Measure the width of the fabric and mark the center along the fold. Repeat for the opposite end.

With the edge of the cotton webbing facing up and the folded edge of the fabric facing you, sandwich the fabric and webbing together, aligning them with the marks you made.

The edges of the webbing and the fold of the fabric should sit flush together. Pin the two layers together starting in the center, then moving outward to pin along the sides.

You shouldn’t need more than 5 or 6 pins. Any more and they get in the way when you’re stitching!

When I first did this, I was a little confused about how and what I was securing, so I wanted to provide a closeup of how the fold of the fabric should look once it’s pinned to the webbing. We’ll be stitching through the fabric fold and the webbing.

Repeat these steps for the opposite end of the fabric.

Secure The Fabric

Cut a long piece of heavy duty sewing thread and tie a quilters knot in the end. To hide the knot, make a stitch through the cotton webbing to start.

Then make a series of stitches through both layers of the fabric to secure the knot, crossing over one another in a star pattern.

Work from the center outward, making long and short stitches that vary in length along/over the edge of the webbing. Keep them about 3-5mm in length.

It’s important to vary the length of the stitches because this will distribute the tension along the fabric more evenly, which will prevent tearing from occurring.

When you reach one end, make a few stitches going back towards the center. Once you’re about 1 inch away from the edge, secure and trim the thread.

Then start from the center again and secure the opposite side, repeating this process.

Secure the opposite end of the fabric to the other roller bar. Now the fabric is fully attached to the cotton webbing.

Assemble The Frame

If the length of the fabric is rather long, roll one side of the fabric on the roller bar. The holes of the roller bars should now be facing one another.

Insert the stretcher slats through the top and bottom roller bars.

Securing The Sides Of The Fabric

Grab your pliers and place the cotter pins in the holes of the slats, making sure that they are even along each side.

The fabric will stretch quite a bit, so give yourself some room and start at least 5 or 6 holes down from the top.

Add a little bit of tension to the fabric but don’t worry about getting it super tight just yet; it’s best to wait until the sides of the fabric are secured.

Cut 2 pieces of cotton twill tape that are long enough to fit along the sides of the fabric between the top and bottom roller bars.

Pin the tape so about 1/3 of it is hanging off of the edge along each side.

Using heavy duty sewing thread, secure the cotton twill tape to the fabric using a basting stitch that’s about 1/2 to 3/4 cm long.

The fabric will start to form a little “tunnel” as you make the stitches and this is totally normal.

Grab the bracing needle and thread some cotton twine onto it.

I prefer to keep the twine on the roll until I know how much length I’ll need. Give yourself a good amount of slack to start.

Place the needle down through the overhanging edge of the cotton twill, then under and around the wooden slat.

Make these stitches about an inch or so apart from one another all the way down one side of the tape.

Leave about 12 – 16 inches of thread along the top and bottom of the slat to secure.

Adjusting Tension

Secure the top of the twine by wrapping it around the corner of the frame. Tuck the tail of the twine to secure, but don’t knot it. (This will make it easier to loosen later on)

Start at the top and tighten each loop. Then secure the tail of thread along the bottom corner. Don’t over tighten the twine until the opposite edge is secured.

Repeat this process of lacing the cotton twine along the other side.

Then tighten the twine as needed along both sides to provide adequate fabric tension.

At this point, you’ll want to add even more vertical tension to the frame. Continue moving the pins farther out, alternating sides and making sure the pins are even with each other. You may need to grab an extra pair of hands or use your shoe to place downward force on the roller bars.

Once you’re happy with the tension, you’re ready to stitch!

FAQs

Do Slate Frames Take A Long Time To Set Up?

Slate frames do take more time to set up compared to their modern counterpart, the embroidery hoop. It takes anywhere from 1.5 – 3 hours depending on the size of the frame and the experience of the stitcher. However, it’s worth the extra time investment because they can make the stitching experience more pleasant and improve the quality of the finished embroidery.

Are Slate Frames Hard To Set Up?

If you can make basic embroidery stitches, you can certainly assemble and dress a slate frame! The techniques aren’t hard, but there are a lot of steps which can make the process a bit time consuming. Once you get the hang of the process, it can be very meditative and you may be surprised to find that it starts to get a little bit quicker the more times you do it.

Is There An Alternative To A Slate Frame?

Yes! Artful Fox has another product that has a quicker setup called the Freedom Frame. Instead of having to lace up each end of the fabric, this frame has a slot and dowel mechanism that only takes a few minutes to set up! Available on Etsy

Are Slate Frames Expensive?

Compared to an embroidery hoop, frames are a bit more expensive. The price varies widely depending on the frame size. On average, plan to spend anywhere from $70 – $200, but some may cost even more. The good news is that these frames are an investment in your embroidery practice and if you take care of them, they could last many years, maybe even a lifetime!

Troubleshooting

Like any new skill, you may run into a few problems when you’re first learning. This is totally normal! Here are a few of the most common problems you may run into.

The Fabric is Puckering In The Frame

• This could be because you haven’t pulled the fabric tight enough vertically or horizontally. Check to see if you are able to move the cotter pins even farther out. Once they’re tight, check the twine on the sides.
• If that isn’t the issue, check that the fabric is properly centered on the webbing and that the stitches securing the fabric are all the way across the width of the fabric.

Help! The Fabric Tore

• If you’re using a delicate piece of fabric, try dressing the frame with an added layer of lightweight muslin or cotton behind the piece of fabric. Make sure to press them together which will help them stick together better while you’re framing up.
• Another reason why this happens: the stitches that secure the fabric to the webbing aren’t varied enough in length. Making long and short stitches more evenly distributes the tension on the fabric, which will help prevent a tear from happening.

The Fabric Looks Crooked Or The Frame Isn’t Completely Square

• The fabric may be attached to the webbing off center. If it’s off center, remove the stitches, double check the center mark on the fabric, and try attaching the fabric to the webbing again.
• This can also happen when you roll up one end of the fabric. Try carefully re-rolling it or roll the opposite end to see if it helps.

I hope you enjoyed this introduction to slate frames. While embroidery hoops still have their place, I plan to use these frames as part of my regular embroidery practice for years to come!

Amanda

Amanda is a hand embroidery teacher and artist. With over 15 years of experience in the craft industry and embroidery, she owns and runs Crewel Ghoul, sharing accessible tutorials and patterns to help inspire fellow crafters to get creative. In addition to running this website, she teaches on Skillshare and Youtube.